{"id":3219,"date":"2013-03-17T19:08:52","date_gmt":"2013-03-17T19:08:52","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/janetgover.com\/?p=3219"},"modified":"2013-03-17T19:08:52","modified_gmt":"2013-03-17T19:08:52","slug":"a-visit-to-iraq","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/johnhocking.net\/jg2025demo1\/history\/a-visit-to-iraq\/","title":{"rendered":"A visit to Iraq"},"content":{"rendered":"<figure id=\"attachment_3220\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3220\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"http:\/\/janetgover.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/03\/The-Grand-Mosque-at-night.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-3220\" title=\"The Grand Mosque at night\" src=\"http:\/\/janetgover.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/03\/The-Grand-Mosque-at-night-300x206.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"206\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3220\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Grand Mosque in Erbil, in the Kurdistan region of northern Iraq<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>I never thought I would go to Iraq.<\/p>\n<p>The Middle East has always fascinated me \u2013 its history and its culture. I remember learning about the Tigris and Euphrates Rivers \u2013 the cradle of civilization \u2013 when I was at school. I&#8217;ve been to other parts of this region before, but the troubled and tragic recent history of Iraq seemed to put it out of my reach.<\/p>\n<p>But I have spent the past week in Erbil \u2013 the main city of the Kurdish region of northern Iraq \u2013 and I had a wonderful time.<\/p>\n<p>I warn you \u2013 there are a lot of photos in this blog \u2013 but I really wanted to share this experience with you.<!--more--><\/p>\n<p>This was a work trip, of course \u2013 but wasn&#8217;t going to let that stop me exploring this fascinating place.<\/p>\n<p>It&#8217;s not all desert here \u2013 but it is pretty dry and dusty\u2026 and so warm compared to the terribly cold spell hitting the UK right now.<\/p>\n<p>The Kurdish people have been scattered and their traditional homeland divided up among neighbouring countries &#8211; but here in Kurdistan they are working to regain their national identity. They have a national flag and a national language \u2013 their independence and culture are very important to them.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3225\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3225\" style=\"width: 700px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"http:\/\/janetgover.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/03\/the-cutadell-seen-through-my-very-dirty-hotel-window.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-3225\" title=\"the cutadell seen through my very dirty hotel window\" src=\"http:\/\/janetgover.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/03\/the-cutadell-seen-through-my-very-dirty-hotel-window.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"700\" height=\"185\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3225\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">The ancient citadel seen through my very dirty hotel window<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>I have seldom been made more welcome in any country. In fact, a taxi driver refused to allow me to pay him for taking me to view the ancient citadel in the oldest part of the city. He said I was a guest and refused my money. That has never happened to me any other place I&#8217;ve visited.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3230\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3230\" style=\"width: 397px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"http:\/\/janetgover.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/03\/house-in-the-citadel-still-undergoing-restoration.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\" wp-image-3230   \" title=\"house in the citadel still undergoing restoration\" src=\"http:\/\/janetgover.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/03\/house-in-the-citadel-still-undergoing-restoration.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"397\" height=\"272\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3230\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">A house in the citadel undergoing restoration. It was so cool inside compared to the heat outside.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>As for the citadel \u2013 it is one of the oldest continually inhabited cities in the world \u2013 something like 6,000 years.<\/p>\n<p>It&#8217;s been badly damaged by wars, and by weather as well as time \u2013 but a project is now underway to restore it.<\/p>\n<p>It is an impressive walled city on an oval mound that rises above the plain where the modern city is steadily growing.<\/p>\n<p>Because of the restoration, I was limited in what I could visit \u2013 but what I did see was fabulous.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3222\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3222\" style=\"width: 378px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/janetgover.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/03\/The-magnifican-grand-mosque.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\" wp-image-3222  \" title=\"The magnifican grand mosque\" src=\"http:\/\/janetgover.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/03\/The-magnifican-grand-mosque.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"378\" height=\"284\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3222\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Grand Mosque really is grand<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>From there I went to the Grand Mosque \u2013 which was a glorious site as night fell.<\/p>\n<p>I expected only to see the mosque from the outside, but as soon as the prayers were finished, I was invited inside to visit this spectacular example of Islamic architecture.<\/p>\n<p>All they asked was that I remove my shoes, cover my head and show respect for their place of worship \u2013 something I was more than happy to do.<\/p>\n<p>I cannot describe how lovely it was.<\/p>\n<p>I was told to go ahead and take photographs &#8211; but my poor skills as a photographer just cannot do justice to the beauty that was all around me.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3227\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3227\" style=\"width: 420px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/janetgover.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/03\/the-decorations-under-teh-dome-of-the-mosque.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3227 \" title=\"the decorations under the dome of the mosque\" src=\"http:\/\/janetgover.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/03\/the-decorations-under-teh-dome-of-the-mosque.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"420\" height=\"315\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3227\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">The patterns on the ceiling of the mosque were incredibly intricate<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3228\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3228\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"http:\/\/janetgover.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/03\/Patters-in-teh-mosque-tiles.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-3228\" title=\"Patters in teh mosque tiles\" src=\"http:\/\/janetgover.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/03\/Patters-in-teh-mosque-tiles-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3228\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Patterns in the mosque tiles<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3229\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3229\" style=\"width: 225px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"http:\/\/janetgover.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/03\/The-umbella-covered-walkway.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-3229\" title=\"The umbella covered walkway\" src=\"http:\/\/janetgover.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/03\/The-umbella-covered-walkway-225x300.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"225\" height=\"300\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3229\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Entering the park under a canopy of colour<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>After the mosque, it was on to a nearby park where a cultural festival was being held\u2026<\/p>\n<p>I was thrilled by the park entrance \u2013a path under a canopy of umbrellas lit by fairy lights.<\/p>\n<p>After music and dancing to celebrate the New Year, it was on to dinner.<\/p>\n<p>The food in the Arab world is wonderful\u2026\u00a0 Here&#8217;s what I have been eating this week.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3233\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3233\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/janetgover.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/03\/mixed-grill-kurdish-style-there-were-hot-coals-under-the-grill-fo-keep-the-food-hot.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-3233 \" title=\"mixed grill Kurdish style - there were hot coals under the grill fo keep the food hot\" src=\"http:\/\/janetgover.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/03\/mixed-grill-kurdish-style-there-were-hot-coals-under-the-grill-fo-keep-the-food-hot-300x268.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"268\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3233\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">A mixed grill kurdish style - there were hot coals under the grill to keep the food hot<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3231\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3231\" style=\"width: 266px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"http:\/\/janetgover.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/03\/It-lokos-like-wine-but-it-was-spiced-turnip-juice-an-acquired-taste-that-I-did-not-acquire.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3231 \" title=\"It lokos like wine - but it was spiced turnip juice - an acquired taste that I did not acquire\" src=\"http:\/\/janetgover.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/03\/It-lokos-like-wine-but-it-was-spiced-turnip-juice-an-acquired-taste-that-I-did-not-acquire-266x300.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"266\" height=\"300\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3231\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">It looks like wine - but it was spiced turnip juice - an acquired taste....<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3232\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3232\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/janetgover.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/03\/The-flaming-pots-held-a-really-tasty-stew-beef-I-think-but-Im-not-quite-sure..jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-3232\" title=\"The flaming pots held a really tasty stew - beef I think - but I'm not quite sure.\" src=\"http:\/\/janetgover.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/03\/The-flaming-pots-held-a-really-tasty-stew-beef-I-think-but-Im-not-quite-sure.-300x260.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"260\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3232\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">The flaming pots held a really tasty stew - beef I think - but I&#39;m not quite sure.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Of course, I shopped too\u2026 exploring the maze of narrow lanes in the marketplace of the old city\u2026 where several centuries of design and manufacture can be found on a single shelf.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3223\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3223\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"http:\/\/janetgover.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/03\/shopping-in-old-Erbil.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-3223\" title=\"shopping in old Erbil\" src=\"http:\/\/janetgover.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/03\/shopping-in-old-Erbil-300x227.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"227\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3223\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Shopping in old Erbil<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3226\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3226\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/janetgover.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/03\/a-dertermined-knitter-can-find-wool-anywhere-although-why-anyone-knits-in-this-hot-country-is-beyond-me..jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-3226\" title=\"a dertermined knitter can find wool anywhere -although why anyone knits in this hot country is beyond me.\" src=\"http:\/\/janetgover.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/03\/a-dertermined-knitter-can-find-wool-anywhere-although-why-anyone-knits-in-this-hot-country-is-beyond-me.-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3226\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">A dertermined knitter can find wool anywhere -although why anyone knits in this hot country is beyond me.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>It&#8217;s been a good week \u2013 thank you to my new Kurdish friends for your hospitality. I hope I can come back again.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3224\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3224\" style=\"width: 490px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"http:\/\/janetgover.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/03\/the-mosque-inside-teh-citadel.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\" wp-image-3224  \" title=\"the mosque inside teh citadel\" src=\"http:\/\/janetgover.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/03\/the-mosque-inside-teh-citadel.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"490\" height=\"319\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3224\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">The mosque inside the citadel - which is still being used today.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>I never thought I would go to Iraq. The Middle East has always fascinated me \u2013 its history and its culture. I remember learning about the Tigris and Euphrates Rivers \u2013 the&hellip;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[12,16],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-3219","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-history","category-my-travels"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/johnhocking.net\/jg2025demo1\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3219","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/johnhocking.net\/jg2025demo1\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/johnhocking.net\/jg2025demo1\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/johnhocking.net\/jg2025demo1\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/johnhocking.net\/jg2025demo1\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=3219"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/johnhocking.net\/jg2025demo1\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3219\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/johnhocking.net\/jg2025demo1\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=3219"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/johnhocking.net\/jg2025demo1\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=3219"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/johnhocking.net\/jg2025demo1\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=3219"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}